As I have repeatedly written about my never ending quest for finding decent brown suits, I was happy to discover that one of my trusted suit retailers, finally came to their senses and added a brown alternative to their supply. As I see it, T.M. Lewins suit Rooney filled a hole in the brands suit range, that I hope is the starting point for a more relaxed addition to all the suits available.
Navy and Charcoal in all its glory and degree of usefulness, but all suit-wearer situations needn’t be adapted to the stiffness of what is regarded as ”appropriate in The City of London”?
I have had the opportunity to take a closer look at the light, slightly clayish brown super 100’s merino wool creation. And as T.M. Lewin has rarely disappointed me, they once again deliver quality and satisfaction wrapped up i a well tailored suit, perfect both for those cooler summer days, relaxed with friends and family, or just the average day at work.
As a successor to their prior slim fit, T.M. Lewins Sackville Cut has taken the brands more tailored fit suits to a new level regarding fit, cut and attitude. I’ve encountered it before when giving a few other models a closer look as I tried their Casual and White Label range.
A slightly higher gorge line adds a contemporary and sharp touch to the lapel, without making the suit looking affected by current trends or fashion quirks. I would rather call it a subtle step towards a more continental feel, which is still firmly anchored in the english soil and style heritage.
The jacket shoulders are still fairly constructed, but give me the impression of a slightly more rounded edge in the area where the shoulder transitions to the sleeve. It all ends up in a silouette adding that often needed width to the wearers shoulders, but still avoiding the padded power suit look and feel.
The Sackville cuts slimmer fit over the back and waist area is one of the models true benefits, as I myself rarely need to adjust the jackets at all when buying my usual size 38R. In comparison with T.M. Lewins exclusive ”White Label”-range suits, I was surprised to discover that I needed to adjust the width over the waist slightly. One might think that perhaps I lost some girth since I got my grey windowpane White Label suit, but as I try that jacket on, it still fits like a glove. The difference in width wasn’t alarming, but still noticable as I needed to reduce the Rooney Jacket waist width with about two inches.
I also feel I need to point out in this tailoring adjustment context, that it is likely that I have become a bit pickier than many suit wearers, as I have had the benefit of trying many different models from various manufacturers. The fit of this brown T.M. Lewin Rooney suit, is to be regarded as a very good and well cut, no doubt about it.
When hemming the trousers, I chose not to reduce the width, leaving a width measure of abour 19,5 centimetres (7,7″) by the hem. I ordered a waist size of 32 inches. Here, I needed to adjust the width making the waist some 1,5 centimetres wider. When ordering 32 inch waist size trousers for the T.M. Lewin White label suit, no alteration was needed what so ever. ”-A-Ha!…” No. I didn’t grow fatter either. The non altered White Label Suit trosers still fits immaculately over the waist.
These differences in measurements betwenn T.M. Lewins exclusive White Label Suits and the standard range, both sold as Sacville Cut suits might have their logical explanations. As the WHite.Lbl suit was a winter model, and this Rooney a typical summery suit. Nontheless, there are differences to bear in mind. The Rooney Sackville Cut jacket measurements seemed to be a bit closer to the ones of the previous T.M. Lewin Slim Fit cut. Still the Rooney Sackville Cut is a bit slimmer.
The Rooney Suit trouser waist, size 32″, was slimmer than both the White Label Sackville cut and older Slim Fit cut trousers of waist of size 32 inches. As far as I know, the waist height does not differ either, which otherwise might have explained things, as a trouser waist with a higher rise, worn lower on the hip than intended, would generally appear to be too tight.
One might ask: when would it be appropriate to use a suit of this colour then? I’d say on most occasions you wear othe brighter summery fabric suits. Unless you are to meet the chairmen of the conservative company board, or other more obviously formal occasions calling for strict business attire or a ”dark suit” dresscode is stated.
I will wear mine for work with a tie in ensembles like the one below. With a, white, pale blue, pink or lavender/lilac single cuff shirt with the collar unbuttoned. Regarding shoe colours, I feel darker brown shoes or brighter tan leather shoes goes exceptionally well together with a suit in this lighter shade of brown.
A darker brown oxford makes the ensemble a bit more formal, while a brogue gives a more casual feel. Tan leather shoes gives a more summer-like and relaxed approach. ”Tan” by the way, is that amber like light yellowish brown tone of uncoloured leather, that has been used for a while.
A black shoe would as I see it make a strong contrast to the brighter colour of the fabric. Still, I can imagine that a black double monk shoe could give a smashing ensemble, together with a white shirt, a black knitted tie and a black belt. Giving somewhat of the same feeling as a light grey would, temaed up with the same garments, but vith a warmer visual impression as the the slightly greyish brown still has more of an earthly tone to it.
When I looked for some details in the Rooney suit webshop images earlier today, I aslo noticed that the T.M. Lewin ”Sale” rollercoaster by coincidence has made a pit stop on a current suit sale. The T.M. Lewin Rooney suit currently costs £199, and there are still decent sizes left in stock. Plus, the fact that I discovered that this suit is even sold in chest sizes from a lower UK 34, corresponding to a swedish and european size 44, finally presenting an alternative also for chaps that still have some shoulder width to gain.
So, to conclude the whole Rooney suit experience, I am glad to have another brown suit in addition to my increasing amount of tailored garments. Versatile, possible to dress up or down depending on the choise of shoes and accessories, or skipping the latter if you are that sort of person.
Oh, and did you by any chance happen to think ”No. NO. NO BROWN in town!” while reading the review above? Forget that outdated nonsense, and join the armada of us suave, sharp brown chaps and drones, spreading joy and sartorial bliss all over the planet! Over and out.
Now, I’ll let DM and the lovely Maria Dinulescu wrapp it all up in some, Peace.