Mr Tweed’s Guide to Summer Shoes

Trickers buck shoes

Än en gång har vi glädjen att här på The Drones Club presentera ett gästinlägg av vår käre vän på Tweed Country Sports, Mr.Tweed. Denna gång en utläggning om sommarskor:

Mr. Tweed

Summer footwear is certainly much more than deck shoes and sneakers. I do wear deck shoes, when sailing or visiting friends in the archipelago. The waxy leather withstands an occasional dip or two, and the soles keep you from involuntarily leaving a wet deck. At the lawn tennis club, I wear my whites, including, of course, a pair of white tennis shoes. For most other matters, however, I prefer slightly dressier shoes. And those are, many times, more comfortable.

The key to summer feet comfort is breathability.

Opting for a dressier shoe will put your feet in a world of calf, suede and single leather soles instead. It also has the advantage of elevating your style a notch. In a nice pair of shoes, you will get away with wearing shorts, leaving your shirt outside your trousers or using that cheap straw hat you just bought for some sun protection.

A nice tan Adelaide brogue from Tricker's

In the summer, you put away your heavy brown brogues in favour of some slimmer tan single leather sole oxfords. Perfect for tropical weight worsted suits, whether beige, mid blue or navy, or for dressing up a pair of jeans.

Outside of maritime circumstances, deck shoes look misplaced at best. For a comfortably relaxed look, it is recommendable that you exchange them for loafers, kind of their cousin I think. Moccasin sewn, Blake stitched or Goodyear welted do not matter, but preferably round in shape and open enough to provide some extra air to your feet. Wear them sans socks for a nonchalant look with cotton twills or shorts.

Red brick soles of Tricker's dirty bucks

The better looking equivalents of modern tennis shoes are buck shoes. These comfortable warm weather shoes were historically made of deer or goat skin, but today, more commonly, of suede. Buck shoes are interesting, by the way. Now firmly vested in the American preppy tradition, but, of course, of English origin, and popularised in the States by the Duke of Windsor. Red brick rubber soles are nice for walking comfort and a vintage sport shoe look. Buck shoes are the ultimate choice for linen and seersucker trousers and suits, or just about any relaxed summer outfit. White socks are fine with buck shoes and with buck shoes only.

Goodyear velted brown loafers from Tricker's

There are more examples of summer shoes, like driving shoes, slippers and sandals, but they are all for more specific settings, and you can easily do without them. Just let me conclude by bringing the latest Tricker’s and Nitty Gritty collaboration to you attention. The top picture shows, I would say, a very successful attempt to rightfully bring back the American buck shoe to its cradle on the British Isles. An off-white suede derby brogue on a natural colour flat welt single leather sole. Rule Britannia, I say!

Yours,
Mr. Tweed

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2 kommentarer till Mr Tweed’s Guide to Summer Shoes

  1. Claude d'Alexandre skriver:

    Spectator shoes, those american classics, should not be forgotten when discussing summer footwear. Black and white certainly works, but my own preference is brown leather and white canvas, such as these: http://tinyurl.com/spectatorshoes

    My opinion is that spectators should always be made of either leather and canvas, or leather and suede. The all-leather version just never looks good enough.

    Wonderful on a sunny summer’s day, together with a tan coloured lightweight wool or linen suit. And a panama, if one is feeling daring enough.

  2. Mr. Tweed skriver:

    Dear Claude,
    Thank you very much for this valuable addition to my guide. Spectators, or two-tone oxfords, can indeed look stunning, however it takes a true dandy to wear them. In England, in fact, this two-tone style was judgmentally called the co-respondent. A co-respondent in a divorce case was the man who had committed adultery with one’s wife – not a gentleman to say the least.

    More striking than ordinary oxfords, but also far less formal, they do indeed work best with lighter colour suits. And you are right about the all-leather versions, the contrast of canvas or suede is needed to stay within the borders of good taste. I certainly hope to seeing you walk the streets of Stockholm in your spectators and you panama this summer…

    Yours,
    Mr. Tweed

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