Some time ago, I told you about an upcoming collaboration with english T.M. Lewin. I was offered to interpret their clothes in an evening wear ensemble, to use on christmas eve. About two weeks ago, a box containing a few kilos of garments arrived, and the project began. As I mentioned before, I chose to base my plan on the grey checked white Label Suit Cushing
To me, the word eveningwear stands for some of the more formal sorts of clothes you could choose to wear. I always wear a suit on christmas eve. Still, this is an occasion to feel relaxed and comfortable.
In theory, a patterned suit is often regarded a much less formal garment, than a plain dark one. I got very fond of a subtle windowpane checked pattern though, when it appeared among the available suits. Together with the colour and the subtleness of the pattern, the suit named Cushing became a very good alternative for my way of wearing a suit on christmas.
Without elaborating on a full scale review on the T.M. Lewin White Label suits, I was very pleased when I opened the box and got my hands on the soft super 140′s woolen fabric. Woven by italian manufacturer Vitale Barberis Canonico. For those of you who have asked me if I’d recommend the suit, I’d say that the fabric, combined with the cut gives great value for the money spent.
My impression of the Sackville Cut, is that it is very similar to T.M. Lewins usual slim fit model. The lapels might be a bit wider though, and if I am not mistaken, some more distinct waist supression had been added to accentuate a narrower middle part of the jacket. Slanted pockets and a pleasing jacket length gives a very nice jacket shape.
The shoulders are not italian naturally softly rounded, but still not sharply marked and wide as I have seen on many othe traditionally cut jacket. A nice shoulder construction giving hte wearer some width, without adding the feeling of an old power suit. The lining is chosen with care, and really adds the the charm of the Cushing suit.
The trousers are narrow but not tight, for a wearer with average sized calves that is. I think they complete the jacket very well, keeping that slender silouette from top to bottom.
To keep the eveningwear feeling, I chose a plain white S:t James shirt and a plain, rough woven navy panama tie. the choise of a plain tie was also based on the fact that the suit was already patterned. Still, the corse silk weave of the panama tie added some texture and life to it. The shirt is a plain white french cuff twill one, with T.M. Lewins full spread collar S:t James.
A natural choise might have been a plain white handkerchief. Instead, I chose a navy pindot silk handkerchief with a distinct white hand rolled edge, to keep a somewhat less strict appearance, and a lover contrast to the surrounding grey check woolen fabric.
I always try to add something red to my christmas clothes. Usually via the tie in some way. This year, a pair of deep red fleur de lys cufflinks. A pair of navy button fastened braces held the trousers in place, and grey woolen socks of the same shade of grey as the suit, and hand finished toe hemming, felt like the best choise.
To give the suit somewhat of a personal touch, I chose to add some 2 inch turn ups to the suit trousers. As I ordered the trousers unhemmed, there was plenty of trouser fabric for this purpose. Everything worn with a pair of black cap toe oxfords.