Christmas ensemble with T.M. Lewin

cufflink_cropSome time ago, I told you about an upcoming collaboration with english T.M. Lewin. I was offered to interpret their clothes in an evening wear ensemble, to use on christmas eve. About two weeks ago, a box containing a few kilos of garments arrived, and the project began. As I mentioned before, I chose to base my plan on the grey checked white Label Suit Cushing

To me, the word eveningwear stands for some of the more formal sorts of clothes you could choose to wear. I always wear a suit on christmas eve. Still, this is an occasion to feel relaxed and comfortable.

In theory, a patterned suit is often regarded a much less formal garment, than a plain dark one. I got very fond of a subtle windowpane checked pattern though, when it appeared among the available suits. Together with the colour and the subtleness of the pattern, the suit named Cushing became a very good alternative for my way of wearing a suit on christmas.

Without elaborating on a full scale review on the T.M. Lewin White Label suits, I was very pleased when I opened the box and got my hands on the soft super 140’s woolen fabric. Woven by italian manufacturer Vitale Barberis Canonico. For those of you who have asked me if I’d recommend the suit, I’d say that the fabric, combined with the cut gives great value for the money spent.

White_Label_LiningMy impression of the Sackville Cut, is that it is very similar to T.M. Lewins usual slim fit model. The lapels might be a bit wider though, and if I am not mistaken, some more distinct waist supression had been added to accentuate a narrower middle part of the jacket. Slanted pockets and a pleasing jacket length gives a very nice jacket shape.

The shoulders are not italian naturally softly rounded, but still not sharply marked and wide as I have seen on many othe traditionally cut jacket. A nice shoulder construction giving hte wearer some width, without adding the feeling of an old power suit. The lining is chosen with care, and really adds the the charm of the Cushing suit.

The trousers are narrow but not tight, for a wearer with average sized calves that is. I think they complete the jacket very well, keeping that slender silouette from top to bottom.

ensemble_collage

To keep the eveningwear feeling, I chose a plain white S:t James shirt and a plain, rough woven navy panama tie. the choise of a plain tie was also based on the fact that the suit was already patterned. Still, the corse silk weave of the panama tie added some texture and life to it. The shirt is a plain white french cuff twill one, with T.M. Lewins full spread collar S:t James.

A natural choise might have been a plain white handkerchief. Instead, I chose a navy pindot silk handkerchief with a distinct white hand rolled edge, to keep a somewhat less strict appearance, and a lover contrast to the surrounding grey check woolen fabric.

I always try to add something red to my christmas clothes. Usually via the tie in some way. This year, a pair of deep red fleur de lys cufflinks. A pair of navy button fastened braces held the trousers in place, and grey woolen socks of the same shade of grey as the suit, and hand finished toe hemming, felt like the best choise.

To give the suit somewhat of a personal touch, I chose to add some 2 inch turn ups to the suit trousers. As I ordered the trousers unhemmed, there was plenty of trouser fabric for this purpose. Everything worn with a pair of black cap toe oxfords.

Braces

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25 kommentarer till Christmas ensemble with T.M. Lewin

  1. R skriver:

    Ser riktigt bra ut!

  2. Benny Stålkok skriver:

    Snyggt! Bortsett från bröstnäsduken that is. :P

  3. Lord Seaground skriver:

    Seasons Greetings!

    Very nice and all that but I can not agree with You regarding the folding on the trousers on a suit. I do know it is something of a trademark of Yours and on a pair of jeans You might get away with it. But not on a nice suit and ensemble like this one.
    A ”moment of madness” perhaps?
    Still, it might have been worse; You could have gone for a knitted raindeer turtleneck.

    Kind Regards,

    Lord Seaground

  4. fromthechalkface skriver:

    Hmm… There’s always been a certain amount of snobbery towards TM Lewin from The Chap, primarily due to their role in anonymising our high-streets, and reducing the existence of independent retailers. (I personally think that this is inconsistent, given their endorsement of e.g. (t.ex.) Marks and Spencer among others.

    But this all seems heartening, and my dear Archibald, you do seem to cut quite the dash. Enough for me to rethink my opinion on turn-ups with a more modern, fitted suit; I can understand Seaground’s recalcitrance. If I had one question, it would be thus: is that top knot quite right for that collar?

    Pip-pip!

    Mr Northice

    • Archibald skriver:

      If you are referring to the four in hand, combined with the full spread collar; I think it is. Some years ago, I might have been the one asking your question. Today, a bulky windsor does not appeal to me the same way the assymetric four in hand does. It brings more life to the ties appearence.

      I often find windsor knots neatly prudent, the same way I find a pair of brand new leather shoes. Shoes are best when well broken in.

      Your reasoning about TML is invigorating. Style fascism and double standard snobbery aren’t really my cups of tea. If someone makes decent affordable suits, why not wear them if one likes them?

  5. fromthechalkface skriver:

    * (I personally think… others.)

  6. Teo skriver:

    Vilken storlek är det som sitter på?

  7. Mycroft skriver:

    Mycket snyggt. Utom näsduken, den hade sett mycket bättre ut som en puff fold om ni frågar mig. Nu sticker den upp alldeles för mycket.

  8. Lord Sidcup skriver:

    Jag instämmer med Mästaren. I övrigt är det mycket snyggt arrangerat. Själv är jag inte förtjust i alltför brett skurna kragar, men det är ju inte mer än personlig smak.

    Det enda pinsamma finns i bokhyllan, i den sista bilden, strax till vänster om din högra axel. Team Edward eller Team Jacob, Archie, my lad? ;-)

  9. Jens J skriver:

    Nice overall. Three things though: the trousers are slightly to long for my taste, I have an issue with pants that form sacks above the feet. The pocket square sticks up far to much and looks like it’s about to fall out, in my opinion no more than a centimetre should be showing. These are just personal taste issues though. One more objective objection though is that the armholes on the jacket seems to be cut quite generously, a common fault with lower priced jackets. This of course decreases the arm mobility and makes the fit problematic when doing anything apart from standing with your arms at your sides.

    Also, I would have loved a burgundy shoe rather than black, less orthodox but fully acceptable with a dark suit.

    • Archibald skriver:

      The armholes on the TML-suits aren’t the most narrow ones on the market. Still much less generous than ones from many other manufacturers.

      Regarding a no break trouser length, it also would have required a narrower width. Otherwise, the trousers just would have looked too short.

      Long story short, I didn’t feel experimental enough add that adjustment too. Especially as the trousers are already fairly tight over the calves (something that says more about my calves, than TMLs trouser width).

  10. Münchhausen skriver:

    Du nämnde i ditt tidigare inlägg angående detta, att det var en handfull andra bloggare runt om i Europa som också skulle få en utstyrsel från TM Lewin som de själva komponerat, att ha på sig på julafton. Jag hittar ingenting om det på deras hemsida. Vore kul att se hur andra har tolkat samma erbjudande som du fått. Länka gärna till dessa bloggar.

    Med Vänlig Hälsning
    Münchhausen

    • Archibald skriver:

      Som jag förstått saken, verkar allt av olika orsaker inte riktigt ha gått enligt den ursprungliga planen. Återkommer när jag vet mer.

  11. Jeeves skriver:

    Det är något med sista bilden (helkroppsbilden) som får mig att tveka. På den bilden känns kostymen en aning för stor i storleken alt dålig passform ( vart hos skräddaren med den?)

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